How to Repair a Damaged Skin Barrier?

Skin Barrier.

If you are even a little into skincare, then chances are, you have heard this word everywhere on the internet. Everyone wants to protect, hydrate and moisturise the barrier.

If you have no idea what a skin barrier is or are still not sure if you truly understand it, then this article will definitely help you.

First thing first,

What is a skin barrier?

Your skin has three layers:

1. Epidermis - the outer thin layer

2. Dermis - the thick middle layer

3. Subcutaneous - the fatty layer

The outermost layer, the epidermis, acts as a skin barrier, which means it protects your skin from infections, irritation, dehydration and pollution. Its job is to lock in the moisture and prevent any water loss.

Keeping a strong skin barrier is necessary to maintain overall healthy skin.

The epidermis has a brick-and-mortar like structure because of how it is constructed.

The skin cells act like bricks. They are bound by mortar-like lipids, and together they work as a wall to prevent any transepidermal water loss.

What are the symptoms and causes of broken skin barrier?

When your skin barrier is broken, you will notice the following symptoms:

1. Itchiness

2. Scaliness and dryness

3. Inflammation

4. Redness and discoloration

5. Fungal and bacterial skin infections

6. Wrinkles become more noticeable

7. Existing acne and other medical conditions like eczema and rosacea can get worse

A lot of factors can result in a broken skin barrier. Some of them can be:

1. Smoking

2. Too much sun exposure

3. Irritants and pollutants

4. Steroids

5. Too much exfoliation (using physical or chemical exfoliants)

6. Mental stress and imbalanced hormones

7. Using a lot of active ingredients

8. Harsh cleansers

9. Products with fragrances and alcohol (if you have sensitive skin)

10. Cold weather

How to protect and repair the skin barrier?

There is a very high chance that at least once in your life, unfortunately, you will face a broken skin barrier, but there are preventative measures you can take to make that possibility rare.

• ALWAYS WEAR SUNSCREEN. Too much sun exposure is the main reason for a broken skin barrier. Continuous exposure to UVA and UVB rays can cause long term damage to your skin. Wearing a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF 50 can be a saviour for your skin in the short as well as long term.

• Simplifying your skincare. Using too many products can irritate your skin and damage the skin barrier. It feels good to use all those fancy serums and toners but sometimes it is best to stick to a simple regime - Cleanser, Moisturiser and Sunscreen.

• Using products that have a pH closer to your skin’s pH can be helpful.

If you have a broken skin barrier, it is wise to change your skincare regime a little bit in addition to taking preventative measures. A few things you can do:

1. Use Mild Cleansers

Even if you have oily skin, you should take a break from all those oil control and deep cleaning cleansers. Switch to a gentle cleanser that will not irritate your skin. Also, if you have a habit of washing your face multiple times a day, it is a good time to cut back on it and only cleanse once a day for some time.

2. Cut back on Scrubs and Exfoliators

If your skin is already irritated and inflamed, it is a wise decision to not use any physical or chemical exfoliator for some time. Those salicylic acids, AHAs and BHAs are amazing for your skin, but this is not the best time to use them because they can make your condition even worse.

3. Stop using Retinol

Retinol is a powerful ingredient, but it can also be very drying. So, stop using it for some time and don't worry, a few days without it won’t make you wrinkly.

4. Vaseline for the win

If your hand’s barrier is broken (which is more common than face), then one tip you can use is to put Vaseline all over your hands, wear cotton gloves and go to sleep (if you are comfortable) or wear it for as long as you can but keeping it overnight will give you the best results.

Now let’s talk about certain ingredients which you can look for in products when creating a skincare routine if you have a damaged skin barrier.

1. Petroleum Jelly

Petroleum jelly or petrolatum is extremely helpful in preventing transepidermal water loss.

In dermatology, it is considered extremely safe. There is a myth that petroleum jelly is comedogenic, but, in fact, it is non-comedogenic. It is because a lot of people confuse cosmetic grade petroleum jelly with crude petroleum used in the oil refinery industry. A study showed Vaseline can actually accelerate barrier recovery. So don't be afraid to use that good old Vaseline on your face.

Keep in mind, if you have acne-prone skin, consult a dermatologist before using petroleum jelly because, for some acne-prone people, petrolatum can be triggering.

2. Ceramide

Ceramide is a lipid that exists in the epidermis with other lipids like free fatty acids and cholesterol. It acts as a glue that keeps our skin cells together.

Ceramides are the most abundant lipids present in our skin. It is known to prevent transepidermal water loss.

There are 9 types of ceramides present in our skin but as we get older our body tends to produce less and less of them. So what you can do is, use moisturisers that have ceramides in them. A study done in 2018 showed that ceramide creams can increase hydration and also, improve the skin barrier.

3. Panthenol

Panthenol acts as a humectant and an emollient. It is also called provitamin B5.

When you apply it to the skin, your skin will convert it into active form B5 or pantothenic acid, which is necessary to maintain a healthy skin barrier.

It has anti-inflammatory properties and can calm down the redness and irritation you might have.

It is amazing for wound healing and can lower transepidermal water loss.

Oils also act as emollients, but oils can sometimes aggravate acne if you are an acne-prone person.

Product Recommendations

Some of the best skin barrier repair products available in the Indian skin care market:

1. Re’equil’s Ceramide and Hyaluronic Acid Moisturiser

MRP 350

Size: 100g

2. Minimalist’s Ceramides 0.3% + Madecassoside Moisturiser

MRP 599

Size: 30g

3. Suganda's Squalane Ceramide Moisturiser

MRP 1,100

Size: 50ml

4. Dr Sheth’s Aloe and Panthenol Hydrating Gel

MRP 550

Size: 50g

5. Vaseline Petroleum Jelly

MRP 45

Size: 21g

Please note: If you have cystic acne or any other skin condition like rosacea. It is recommended to talk to a dermatologist before using any product.